Great to see you have it back home. Wish we could fit all our cars in our garage, hopefully a new one in the works Thanks I'm so glad to have it back home. Its just a pity everything isn't 100% yet but I guess thats all part of the fun of a project.
I feel that with 2 extra spaces in the garage I should really fill them with 2 more cars haha At one stage I had a 300zx, a SW20 MR2 and a Celica ZZT231 in the garage. All supposably project cars and I ended up selling them all as I missed having a Caldina. Now i've got one I mustn't sell it haha.
Pics and info for: Toyota Caldina GT-FOUR (ST246W) Introduced in late 2002, the ST246 Caldina turbo version was now called the GT-FOUR in keeping with engine and 4WD drive train heritage shared with the Toyota Celica GT-FOUR. By:, Caldina GT-T workshop manual. TOYOTA FORKLIFT 3FG 3FD 50 60 SERIES WORKSHOP SERVICE TOYOTA FORKLIFT 6FG 6FD 10 14 15 18 20 23 25 30 WORKSHOP SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL TOYOTA CALDINA GT4 GT-FOUR ST246 2002-2007 WORKSHOP. Oct 05, 2013 Toyota Caldina GT4 2005 FL Manual Swap The car is very loud only running the You are searching repair manual in.
Just wanted some updates for this weekend. There was a few jobs that I was meaning to get onto asap, some were just a matter of cleaning up previous work while other jobs were to add/modify new additions to the car. The first one which needed to be done the most was fixing up the left over auto wiring. Last weekend I had twist wired the neutral start switch wires so I could get the car back home (we finished the car at about 2am in the morning). At the same time I also needed to connect up the reverse switch trigger.
I needed to find out which wires would switch the reverse lights on, I checked all the wires with the multimeter to check for both resistance and voltage. I wired in a fuse in my bridge wire so I would have some protection if I had shorted a connection in the process.
It just so happened to be the 2 red wires visible in the pic below. I soldered these and added some heat shrink to neaten up the connection. I also properly looped the neutral start switch wires and neatened up those. There were several wires which will be no longer needed with the manual transmission. I also got around to installing my IS200/Celica ZZT231 ZR alloy pedals. These were an absolute bastard to install, the accelerator was a breeze but the clutch and brake pedal was very frustrating.
I have a feeling they are still not on 100%, looking at the 2 pedals it appears that the Caldina ones are slightly wider so these seem to be a bit stretched. Why they changed something so small makes me sad indeed. Another difference for the sake of being different is the foot rest. The one on the right is the original caldina one, while the one on the left is the brushed alloy is200 footrest. Unfortunately this can't be used mainly due to the size difference so I will likely just buy a sheet of thin alloy and make up one to suit the original caldina pedals.
The next stage involved dismantling the Auto Cluster to swap over components from the manual, you'll notice below that the auto model displays a gear indicator in both an lcd form and a letter indication. I would have just swapped the whole manual cluster over but the kms are considerably different (234k on the manual cluster as a pose to 164k on my auto). Everything came off without too much problems.
Its going to be extremely frustrating trying to realign the fuel and cooling needles back in place. I've got some markers and photos of the needles in place but i'm sure it will be out slightly. The pic below shows the auto centre cluster. The ABS light is actually below the cooling temp gauge. This is the manual centre cluster, you'll notice the ABS sensor is at the top of the cooling temp sensor.
![Caldina St246 Manual Caldina St246 Manual](/uploads/1/2/5/3/125365280/608049375.jpg)
Not sure what to do to get that light working. I may end up trying to remove the odometer from the auto and placing it in the manual.
![Caldina st246 manual 2017 Caldina st246 manual 2017](/uploads/1/2/5/3/125365280/584464644.jpg)
Or finding a place that would engineer the odometer change legally if I can prove i'm replacing the cluster. I've always loved being able to hear the turbo spool, for my driving a little bit of performance decrease isn't crucial, and I wanted to install the pod filter setup for my own enjoyment. Same thing goes for the Aftermarket bov. Unfortunately the stock one can't be adapted without a plate welded onto the intake pipe below as the stock bov mounts to the factory air box. I made a purchase tonight, the bov thats pictured in the above picture had an inlet size of 25mm which was too small.
I scored this GFB Blow Off Valve off ebay for $55, its a plumback design so if I wanted to run it quiet I have the choice. There is a piece of pipe at the bottom of the bov in the pic below which is 1' (25mm), if that is removed I have a 35mm fitting further up (where the allen key grub screws are pictured),that 35mm inlet fitting can be changed, I needed a 30-31mm fitting and found that the end bit comes off and another fitting can be put in its place. Only costs about $20. I'll have more updates tomorrow, I did however do one other modification and i'll post up the pics tomorrow. I'll finish running the wires for the siren and bonnet latch detector for the alarm at the same time.
Sweet build, man! I love the car so far.Oh thanks heaps Its such nice comments like this that make me so proud to be part of MCM. I've got so many awesome comments since opening up my thread.
I finally got the centre cluster changed over, pretty sure I got the positions in the right spot (only time will tell haha). Its quite difficult to get to since the back plugs are made to the exact right length needed, but not enough to get your hand properly and disconnect them. Took a good 10 minutes in stuffing around to get them off originally. No more Auto Gear indicator visible yay The complete interior back together. Sorry about the 1/2 shadow, for some reason the flash must been blocked by the roof trim. I need to get rid of that 'trd' shifter knob. Its a cheap ebay item and with good reason its cheap, they didn't even stamp the numbers on the top of the gear knob in the middle lol I have the Caldina one which has an awesome feel (and its heavy too which feels great) but it was peeling quite badly from the threads.
Well here is my latest addition. My series 2 lights.
I think they look absolutely aweeeesomme and couldnt be more happier. I reckon it makes it look like a Starlet GT. Best mod yet Heres another shot I found a great spot to store Mcdonalds when working on the car haha. Makes for easy access when on the run.
I got heaps done today and i'm really happy with the result. The alarm on the car had wires going through where the clutch master cylinder needed to go through so I had to extend a number of wires, 5 of which were from the siren/alarm so these had to be extended. I went to take a photo of the alloy pedals that took ages to put in but the camera wouldn't allow the photo lol Still not sure why its not taking photos anymore since that photo. I got the reverse switch wired in nicely now too. There was a small adjustment made to the Clutch Master cylinder pedal adjuster in hopes for the car to go into gear easier. If this doesn't fix it i'll have to bleed the clutch. Minor stuff though I still need to fix up the tailshaft, I have a feeling that it may actually be the exhaust hitting the tailshaft which is causing the vibrations through the interior.
Some may know of the later model Toyota Caldina ST246, they were available in a special N edition which featured some extremely nice seats. One thing i've always appreciated on cars is having seats with adjustable rear bolsters to allow better.
I had one set of WRX seats in my legacy that were so snug that I had to actually squeeze myself into them haha. I am speaking an engineer in hopes to get approval to install a set of Caldina ST246 Recaro front seats. They look awesome. I got to work fixing up a few more things. The centre japanese computer has a cracked polorized film so I got to work taking it apart. The internals were quite interesting.
There is a board on the top which must be for the compass (copper windings). The front section of the unit came off nicely. The screen is actually backlit using a mini neon light.
I would have thought LEDs would have been a better choice,especially when changing the colour of the writing on the screen. Here is the screen out of the car, you can see the cracks on the right hand side (looks like snow flakes growing). There were 2 polarizing films (i hope that is what I removed lol), if i'm not mistaken the lcd part is actually in between 2 pieces of glass visible below: I got to work cleaning up the car as well as the engine bay.
Still needs more work though. I did get around to giving the car a full detail which I will be sure to have more pictures tomorrow.
Came up a treat. I had to get my mightycarmods sticker on, those videos by mcm are absolutely hilarious and great fun to watch. Now i just need to get rid of that VSC sticker since its now disabled. You can just see the finish on the paint, it came up very glossy and soft indeed. Looks good be cool to see the car detailed and nice and clean thanks khindutries I will be sure to get a few more pics this week.
Just got another update, felt adventurous and wanted to try and renew the torn up caldina gtt gearknob that arrived with my gearbox. I bought some vinyl, red embroidery thread and some curved needles. Its something i've never done before but I thought i'd retrim it myself. It didn't turn out perfect but I have enough material to redo it. I thought a bit of diy is just as good (if not better) than buying one new.
I'd like to redo the gear boot in the same pattern. Any comments would be much appreciated, positive or negative hehe. Well its been a while since any updates (I am still meaning to get some half decent shots of my car too). I've taken a slightly different approach in life with regards to car modifications.
I bought another project car (a 1985 Toyota Celica SX) which I was hoping to fix up and do the mods I couldn't easily do on the Caldina which involved a neat set of Recaros with new seat rails, higher duration/lift cams, aftermarket ecu and some other various bits and pieces. It made me think, by the time I spend the money on getting that other car registered (or on club plates), fix up the paint, suspension, interior etc It will end up costing a lot more than it would have cost me to do the modifications on the Caldina. Quite a bit of the work is already done. So I thought, why not just put the attention on the Caldina. I've never taken it to the next level in any car i've had in the past and here is the perfect opportunity.
Recaro Seats and Seat Rails After some advice from some great friends I have decided to open up my choices for seats to also include the ones available in locally delivered Mitsubishi Evo's. My main issue at the moment with regards to the seat rails is ensuring that the seats are designed to function without interfering with the factory airbag systems featured (I love that airbags save lifes, but I hate the inconvenience when it comes to not being able to install aftermarket steering wheels and seats. ECU Installation and Tune I've always been a bit skittish when it comes to aftermarket ecus. I always think they will never be as reliable as the factory system and while I have found some honest dyno tuners that i'm hoping to take the car, I still think the cars going to blow up on the dyno and i'm back to square one haha. So far I would consider an E-Manage Ultimate, I have heard great things about them and would hope to let the ecu piggyback on the ignition and timing components and leave the ecu to do the work. Cams I've always wanted to install a set of higher duration/lift cams. In previous experience i've heard that some gains can be retrieved but often these are left to the last.
I believe Kelford in NZ make some custom cams for this motor, in preference though i'd like to deal with Wade Cams in Melbourne as they have been really nice to me on the phone. Any opinions on going for some streetable cams. High Flow Factory Turbo While the factory system is sure to have some limitations, i'm hoping to keep my system as stealthy as possible. Especially with looking for around 200-210kw at the wheels.
My only worry is the limitations of machining a turbo which has the outlet/exhaust side of the turbo integrated with the exhaust manifold. The other option here might be to buy a CT20B turbo and a manifold to suit but I am still hoping to keep that area of the motor as stock looking as possible. I'd love some advice/comments on the plans above if you have a moment. The manual gearbox has been going very well the last few months. I've been getting a few last bugs out of the way, the main one has been a lack of boost response.
After some investigation I found both intercooler hoses were badly split on the inside, they were made of a combiation stitched rubber hose and for OEM items they seemed to have lasted quite well. I decided it was a good opportunity to add a small amount of colour to the engine bay and decided to get a pair of aeroflow silicone hoses. One was 57mm the other was 70mm diameter. I ended up getting them both at 76mm length, the 57mm diameter needed to be shortened slightly which was easily done with a hose clamp and a stanley knife. I used a new set of T-Bolts and reinstalled the intercooler. I also removed the intercooler cover on the top as I am slowly working at straightening up any bent fins.
Might not come up too well in the photo but there are a fair few bent fins, on the last row there is a whole section of fins squashed flat, these ones take a lot longer to bend straight. I use a pair of tweezers and work away at each one slowly.
I finally got around to fixing the reverse switch, it appears that I had joined 1 wire incorrectly which was easily rectified and its all working perfectly now. I took a few photos of the car which i've been meaning to take for some time (the front shot is a bit too over exposed). I should have the replacement tailshaft on in the next few weeks, that will definitely get rid of the shuddering when on load or accelerating from a standstill. I am still looking into getting some new seats, I would still love to get some ST246 N edition seats, moreso as i'll have a better chance at getting them engineered. Other changes to come will be retrimming the door trims with some grey or black suede. The coilovers will be adjusted another inch or so to provide a neater stance.
The biggest thing to come will be installing an aftermarket Dump Pipe, High flow cat and new mid pipe. I have been meaning to take a picture of it to show just how restrictive that system is. At one section it squashes over the subframe down to about 1/2 an inch.